Fakes and Counterfeit Magic Cards – How to identify them
How to detect fakes and counterfeit Magic: The Gathering cards
Author: Philippe Zens
In today’s article, you will learn how to distinguish fake from real Magic cards. The good news: It’s not that hard!
Do you have to fear the fakes?
First things first: You do not have to fear to get flooded with counterfeit Magic trading cards. We buy over 600,000 cards and sell over 400,000 cards (that’s non-bulk cards) a year. During the buying process, we identify fakes and use them to train our staff. The number of counterfeit cards we find is pretty low.
The main reason: Really good fakes that pass the eye test are almost non-existent.
No One Test Can Identify Them All
Sadly, there is no single best test that will guarantee the authenticity of a Magic card. One of the reasons is that some MtG cards are really old.
During the times, Wizards of the Coast used all kinds of different printing techniques and materials. Also, counterfeiters got better and heightened their skill in creating those cards.
The field is pretty complex, but we’re not aiming for a full coverage. Rather, we want to provide you with simple and actionable tips and tricks.
Want to sell MTG cards
We buy every Magic card and complete collections of all sizes. This ranges from individual cards to very large High-end collections in the six-figure range. We are looking for Magic: The Gathering cards from all editions, in all languages, both foil and non-foil. Whether Near Mint, Played, or in slabs, we accept all conditions. We review each card individually and will be happy to provide you with a quote. Fast, fair, and secure.
Test with the help of an MTG store or vendor
At Three For One Trading we are happy to share our knowledge and answer all your questions about this topic. Just send us a message.
Because it can be hard for us to judge a card from pictures, we always recommend asking for a second opinion at your local game store. They will very likely be able to make some tests and verify a card for you.
Watch our video about fakes
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More InformationIn the comparison with the Greem Dot test at minute 3:50 of the video, we made a mistake and labeled a card that is probably genuine as “fake”. As mentioned at several points in the video, it is of the utmost importance to always carry out more than one test, to use a verifiably genuine card for comparison and, if in doubt, to consult an additional expert.
Do you have MTG cards you want to sell?
The 3 most important tests to identify fake Magic cards
There are exactly three cornerstone tests for checking the authenticity of a Magic the Gathering trading card. Each will look at a different area of a card:
We’d also like to share some information with you about the following areas so that you can spot counterfeits on your own in the future:
- Weight
For this test, we check the card’s weight by using a precision scale (Foraco Scale 500g x 0.01g). An authentic Magic: The Gathering trading card should weigh between 1.7 and 1.8 grams (about 0.06 ounces). A slight deviation in both directions is possible and okay.
The weight of the card is affected by the materials used in the manufacturing process. Since counterfeits use different materials, the weight frequently deviates from the original.
This test will also reveal most fakes that were made in more recent years, as counterfeiters are not using the same paper. Those fake cards usually weigh around 1.9 grams (0.067 ounces) as they often contain more plastic than real MTG cards.
REAL This card weighs 1.76 grams and is therefore exactly in the center of the weight margin for being considered real.
FAKE However, this card weighs 1.85 grams and is therefore way above the 1.8 limit. This raises serious concerns for being a fake card!
2. Print Quality of the Card
We are using a Fancii Jewellery Magnifier (20x), but any magnifying glass will do for these kinds of tests.
An authentic Magic: The Gathering card has distinct features. Those have not been replicated yet. MtG cards are industrially printed. In a first step, all colors are printed dot by dot and layer by layer. All those dots and layers create the picture of the card that you know. This kind of print is unable to print sharp edges, straight lines and text.
Therefore, the black frame and text of the card is printed in a different print type that is not usually used with fakes and is visible with a magnifying glass.
2.1 Green-Dot Test
Within the green dot on the back of the card, you can find a yellow spot. Within this yellow spot, there are four red dots in an L-shape. In addition, the green dot has to be surrounded by a saturated black circle. Also check the previous test about print quality. The black circle is solid.
REAL You can clearly see the four red dots in an L-shaped formation inside the bright spot.
FAKE There is not a single red dot inside the bright spot.
2.2 The T in Magic: The Gathering
The “T” stands for “Test”! The words “Magic: The Gathering” are printed in large letters on the back of the Magic card. You can spot a counterfeit very quickly by looking at the ‘T’ in “The.” The bottom and right edges of the letter have wavy lines. The left edge, however, is a smooth, straight line.
REAL It is clear to see that the T has a straight line on the left side and a wavy line on the right side.
FAKE The black lines of the T are all the same. There is no clear distinction between a straight edge and a wavy edge.
2.3. The “Demon Horns” in Deckmaster
Another trick for quickly spotting counterfeits by looking at the back is to examine the “Deckmaster” print more closely. There are small crescents above each of the two “E”s. These are often missing on counterfeits.
REAL Here you can clearly see the horns on the “E” in Deckmaster.
FAKE Even though the printing on this card looks good, the demon horns are missing.
2.4. Set- and Mana-Symbols
In the first step, all colors are printed dot by dot and layer by layer. All these dots and layers then form the image of the card as we know it. With this type of printing process, it is not possible to print sharp edges, straight lines, or text.
That is why the black border, the text, and the set and mana symbols on the Magic card are added separately using a different printing process.
Individual elements, such as the set symbol, are printed on a so-called “top layer.” In other words, they are printed on top of existing layers.
Counterfeits are not produced with this level of care, and this difference can be detected relatively easily with a magnifying glass.
REAL This is what the print layout looks like on a real card. You can clearly distinct between the black lines of the expansion symbol and the printed color dots.
FAKE On this example the lines are made of black dots and are directly intermixed with the blue, red, yellow and green dots.
2.5. Straight Lines
As with other aspects of print quality, you can also pay attention to the lines and borders within the design on a Magic card. A good example is the border around the word “Deckmaster” on the back of the Magic card. These lines should be straight and continuous.
REAL The black lines stand out clearly and sharply against the background.
FAKE The black lines are pixelated, uneven, and blend slightly into the background
2.6. Rosette pattern
The pattern of colored dots must be sharp and even. It must not be blurry. You can check the print quality with a magnifying glass. We’ve already covered quite a bit about rosette patterns. If you’d like to learn more, feel free to browse around here.
REAL As you can see on this example, the dots and lines are sharp as a knife. In addition, the framing of the text very easily distinguished from the rosette pattern.
FAKE The lines are blurry, the colored dots are chaotic, and not in a distinguished pattern.
3. Light Test
You should always compare suspicious cards with similar, authentic ones. The main thing to check is how translucent the cards are. However, the type of “core” the cards have is often relevant as well.
It is important to compare the suspected fake with a card from the same set and color. Skipping this step can easily result in a false positive.
3.1. Blue Layer
When you hold a Magic: The Gathering card up to the light, you should generally be able to see a bluish tint. If you look at the card from the side, you’ll also notice a blue layer. Fakes usually have a black core – that is, a black layer in the middle. Additionally, the edges on counterfeits appear much “sharper.”
REAL The middle layer of the card has a bluish tint. The edges are not perfectly sharp, possibly as a result of mass production.
FAKE The middle layer of the blade is black. In addition, the edge is very smooth because Fakes are produced in small quantities. This is why the blade stays sharper.
3.2. Light Transmission
If the suspicious card is genuine, it should let just as much light through as a genuine MtG card. The beam of light should be even, and both sides of the card should be visible within it.
Many counterfeits are very opaque. It is also much rarer for fakes to let more light through than genuine cards. In either case, however, the counterfeit fails the test.
REAL It depends on how old the card is, what colors are on the front, and whether the card has a blue core. Most Magic cards have one, but it is missing in some editions, such as Ice Age.
FAKE There are also significant differences in the lighting test here. The most important thing to note is that the lighting is often dim or very bright.
4. Tips for Spotting Alpha and Beta Fakes
4.1. Beta Rebacks
In the early days of Magic: The Gathering, the first counterfeiters used Collectors’ Edition and International Edition cards to forge Beta cards.
This involves gluing the face of an IE/CE card onto the back of a genuine Magic card. Because of the adhesive used, these cards are usually heavier than their genuine counterparts. Additionally, the adhesive is visible under a magnifying glass, and the card often develops “warping,” similar to water damage. Sometimes the cards are also slightly smaller, as they were trimmed to the correct weight.
If you’re still unsure after the initial tests, you can compare the alignments of the mana symbols, as these differ clearly between Alpha, Beta, Unlimited, and IE/CE.
Rebacks often have adhesive residue and creases along the edges where the “DIY enthusiast” has tried to press the cards together as tightly as possible.
You can sometimes spot Rebacks from the side as well. There are often adhesive residues here, or the adhesive “blends” with the Blue Core Layer, making it harder to see.
So-called “rebacked” cards also never pass the weight test. In the early days of Magic: The Gathering, the first counterfeiters used Collectors’ Edition and International Edition cards to forge Beta cards. The adhesive they used made the cards heavier than their genuine counterparts.
4.2. Beta Cut to Alpha
Another hobby that used to be popular was trimming cards from the Limited Edition Beta set. This involves rounding the corners of the Beta cards so they look like the corners of an Alpha card.
Characteristics include irregular corners that are either too rounded or not rounded enough. Additionally, Alpha corners have a small lip, and the die-cut is clearly visible on the back.
When viewed side by side, genuine alpha cards and beta cards with an alpha cut look very similar.
The alpha border at the corners of the map indicates which one is the real alpha map.
5. Modern Fakes
5.1. Double-Sided Cards
We’ve noticed an increase in counterfeit double-sided cards. The reason is quite simple: if the back is printed, there’s no way to check for security features on that side. Here’s what you can still look out for:
- Cards often feel “glossy” due to a higher plastic content. The best way to spot this is by comparing the card to a genuine one.
- Irregularities can be detected, particularly in the set symbol and in lines that aren’t “straight” (see “Print Quality” and “Straight Lines”).
- Cards usually have a black core instead of a blue core. You can check this by looking inside from the side with a magnifying glass. It is not necessary to tear the card.
5.2. Print Quality of Collector Boosters
Unfortunately, there are significant differences in print quality among new cards from sources such as Collector Boosters or Wizards Promo Packs, which are likely due to the different production locations (Japan, Europe, and the United States).
The Blue Core often appears purple or even orange. The cards are often slightly too heavy, and they were clearly die-cut from back to front. Additionally, the cards feel different – either more matte or glossier.
If you compare, for example, two copies of Solitude from Modern Horizons 2, a layperson would be quite certain that one of the cards is a counterfeit. Yet they were simply produced at different locations.
But what other features can you rely on?
The general quality characteristics of the printing remain the same:
- Green Dot // “T” // Demon Horns
- Set Symbol
- Straight Lines
Check out our Instagram
We made a couple of short videos of some tests for our Instagram.
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Can you identify the fake cards?
We are happy to help
In order to check if a suspected card is fake, we advise you apply a combination of the tests presented in this article: Weight, Print Quality and Light.
If you have a card that you own for quite some time, or you just bought a card you’re unsure with, just reach out to us through the contact form.
You can find more information about our Grading Guidelines and our tools used in the process in our article about the topic:
Magic Card Grading Guide
Grading trading cards is one of the most important activities that we as a business do. Our team is evaluating thousands of Magic cards each day. The spectrum of cards we grade on a daily basis ranges from the latest set's mundane Commons to highlights like Black Lotus from Beta.